The biggest trouble when it comes to installing a new torque converter is about getting all the stuff out of the way so to get to the transmission. Before they could turn the first bolt on the transmission, you had to remove the exhaust pipes, driveshaft, and crossmember, and all the transmission linkages.

The next step is to drain the fluid from the transmission and separate the transmission from the engine at the flywheel the movie. Once you have access to the front of the transmission, simply pull out the old torque converter. You may have to wiggle it a little bit to get it loose, but excessive force isn’t necessary unless it is damaged.

To install the new torque converter, simply slide it onto the transmission’s input shaft. The converter needs to connect at three levels, the input shaft, the stator support, and the front pump gear, so you may need to spin the converter a bit to get all three engaged. You should not, however, have to bang or otherwise force the converter into position. Once it’s in place, raise the transmission back into place so that the hub of the torque converter slides into the end of the crank, and bolt the converter to the flexplate.

TCI’s kit provides all the fittings and hoses necessary for the install. There are two options when installing the kit. You can piggyback the external oil cooler with the existing oil cooler in the radiator. Cook prefers this method because it can actually help bring the transmission fluid to operating temperatures before the race. With the car running, even if you are sitting in the pits, the transmission may not be engaged, but the water temperature will come up to operating temperature. By running the flywheel  and clutch transmission fluid through both coolers, the higher water temperature will help bring up the temperature of the fluid to give you good performance as soon as the green flag falls, but the external cooler will keep it from getting too hot under racing conditions.