The Mini only has pre-Verto multi-piece and Verto. The easiest way to transplant is to use the whole system as fitted to your Mini. On no account try to adapt Metro stuff to fit the Min unless it’s to use the Metro Verto flywheel the movie set-up, in which case all Mini Verto operating linkage is needed. Don’t try to cross-pollinate the two Mini systems either. It can be made to work sometimes, but is too hit and miss and a whole bunch of aggravation.

The clevis pins are cheap to replace, so new ones are a good idea. The push-rod clevis pin hole can elongate, and is also cheap to replace it. The plunger wears on the inside where the lever-arm pushes against it. A severe concave recess here means a new one is needed. There are three types of plunger/bearing assembly. Earlier ones have a press-fit release flexplates bearing. Intermediate ones were floating held on by a spring clip. Wear on the lever-arm is usually on the ball at its base. If there’s a flat worn on it, replace it. Otherwise it won’t disengage the clutch properly.

Wear on the ball causes clutch malfunction because of the leverage ratios involved. When very worn, it causes the slave cylinder piston to reach the stop-ring before the clutch properly disengages. A quick-fix if a new arm is unaffordable is to extend the push rod where it goes into the slave cylinder by welding a short piece to it. It’s also possible to bend the long arm by heating it up above the stop knuckle and bending it towards the slave cylinder face slightly. Don’t overdo either of these as the ball will bend backwards rendering the clutch completely inoperable. These are only quick fixes. Change it at the earliest opportunity. Adjust the flywheel and clutch stops according to a manual once the unit is refitted.

Carefully grease all the parts when reassembling using multi-purpose grease, and make sure the clutch plunger is fitted the right way, big chamfered hole uppermost, to avoid breaking the ball off.